Ringworm Identification in Pets: Treatment, Prevention and Home Remedies

"Ringworm" is the common name for the skin infection caused by a special group of fungi; it is not caused by a worm at all. The fungi feed upon the dead cells of skin and hair causing, in people, a classic round, red lesion with a ring of scale around the edges and normal recovering skin in the center. Because the ring of irritated, itchy skin looked like a worm, the infection was erroneously named. The fungi responsible are called "dermatophytes," meaning "plants that live on the skin" thus the more correct term for ringworm is "dermatophytosis." The characteristic "ring" appearance is primarily a human phenomenon. In animals, ringworm frequently looks like a dry, grey, scaly patch but can also mimic any other skin lesion and have any appearance.

WHERE WOULD MY PET PICK UP THIS INFECTION?

The spores of dermatophyte fungi are extremely hardy in the environment; they can live for years. All it takes is skin contact with a spore to cause infection. Infected animals are continuously dropping spore-covered hairs as infected hairs break off into the environment. Some animals are carriers, who never show signs of skin irritation themselves but can infect others readily. There are several species of dermatophyte fungi. Different species of fungi come from different kinds of animals or even from soil thus determining the ringworm species can help determine the source of the fungal infection.

TREATMENT

Commitment is the key to success especially if you have more than one pet. Infected animals are constantly shedding spores into the environment (your house) thus disinfection is just as important as treatment of the affected pet.

ORAL MEDICATION FOR INFECTED PETS

There are primarily two medications being used to treat ringworm: Griseofulvin and Itraconazole (brand name "Sporonox"). Veterinary dermatologists disagree as to which is better. Both medications are relatively expensive, must be given with food, and have significant potential to cause birth defects in pregnant pets.

Treatment with either medication typically is continued for 1-2 months and should not be discontinued until the pet cultures negative. Stopping when the pet simply looks well visually frequently leads to recurrence of the disease.

GRISEOFULVIN (brand name Fulvicin)

This medication must be given with a fatty meal in order for an effective dose to be absorbed by the pet. Persian cats and young kittens are felt to be sensitive to its side effects which usually are limited to nausea but can include liver disease and serious white blood cell changes. Cats infected with the Feline Immunodeficiency Virus commonly develop life-threatening blood cell changes and should never be exposed to this medication. Despite the side effects, which can be severe for some individuals, Griseofulvin is still the traditional medication for the treatment of ringworm and is usually somewhat less expensive than Itraconazole.

ITRACONAZOLE

This medication is highly effective in the treatment of ringworm but is available in capsules far too large to be useful to most small animals. This means that a special company must reformulated the medication into a more useful size. Nausea is a potential side effect for this medication but probably the main reason it is passed by in favor of griseofulvin is expense. Itraconazole is also effective in treating many life-threatening fungal infections whereas Griseofulvin only treats ringworm.

By increasing the amount of Itraconazole in the environment, we may be creating resistance in more dangerous fungi which could become a problem over the years. On the average, cats treated with Itraconazole and nothing else were able to achieve cure two weeks sooner than cats treated with Griseofulvin.

DOES PROGRAM CURE RINGWORM?

In the late fall of 2000, the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association published a study of over 200 cases indicating that Lufenuron (the active ingredient of Program) could be an effective treatment for Ringworm. This began as an observation that animals using Program or Sentinel for flea control did not get ringworm. Questions about this work have come up from the public since the release of this work. The fact is that the study is still under scrutiny by members of the American College of Veterinary Dermatology and "the jury is still out." It is clear that the doses purported to be helpful with Ringworm should not be harmful. At this time the use of lufenuron for Ringworm is reasonable if other more conventional treatments are concurrently used.

Other Ringworm Treatments:

#1-Clip hair around the ringworm patch. Once a day dip a cotton swab into tincture of goldenseal and paint the entire affected area. Limit the treated area to a dime-size spot in cats and small animals and up to a quarter-size spot in larger dogs. If there is more than one spot, alternate daily treatments from one spot to the other.

#2-Tea Tree Oil. Apply oil on a Q-tip or cotton ball to the affected area, twice the diameter of the lesion.

#3-Bleach. One part bleach to nine parts water (premixed), applied to the affected area twice the diameter of the lesion. DO NOT use near the eyes!

RescueCats, Inc. has gathered this information from various sources and does not recommend or endorse any one method of treatment. All treatments used are at your own risk.

Visit http://www.rescuecats.org for more useful tips and articles.

Chassie Has been an active volunteer for http://www.RescueCats.org since April 2000.

What Do You Do When Your Pet is Obese?

So you have just verified with your veternarian that your animal is indeed overweight. It is time to confess and take some responsibility. That is really the first step. We are far more responsible for our pets’ weight issues than we may believe.

Take a quick peak at this fat checklist and take note of the statements that

apply to you and your animal.
1:Your dog or cat is an indoor animal which eats, sleeps and snacks virtually all day long.
2:You take your dog or puppy out on ultra-fast walks for potty and rush him or her right back into the house. You rarely take him or her around the block for decent exercise.
3: You indulge your dog by giving him/her treats whenever those wanting eyes look your way, without cever onsidering the ingredients or the number of calories.
4:You feed your pet too much, refilling the dish after it is emptied, never thinking about the amount that you are actually feeding.
5:You have a multi cat household and some cats end up eating more than the others.
6:You live in a small apartment that does not have much room for your cat or dog to run about.
7:You feed your cats and dogs food just because, whether or not they are really hungry.
8:You never play with your cat and she has no other kittens or cats in the household to play with
9: You lavish your pet with lots and lots of treats out of pure guilt to compensate for all those long hours at work

It should be noted that Monitoring your fat cat's food consumption can be particularly difficult in multi-cat households where only 1 of the household cats is fat.

He or she probably got that way initially by consuming the other cats' food as well as his/her own. Perhaps the easiest solution is to simply feed set meals in different rooms and remove any uninjested food after the cats have lost interest in their meal. Alright, say that you have tried this and your cats just will not seem to cooperate. This is normal.

Cats, more than some animals, are really creatures of habit. It may take 2 or even 3 tries, carrying your cat and the food into the new eating room. No matter what room it is, make it comfortable for them, even if it is the bathroom. Put down a place mat, close the toilet seat, put on a light and maybe even place down a towel for your cat.

Ryan Joseph is a researcher and writer. For Pet Nutrition information visit Life's Abundance Premium Dog Food as well as Life's Abundance Cat Food, Premium

Caring for your Dog's Mouth, Teeth and the Digestive System

It is always a good idea to have some knowledge of what to look for as far as your dogs health is concerned. The mouth and teeth of your dog can give you a lot of clues to things that might be wrong with your dog if he is experiencing problems, regular checking can save you from having problems in the future, it can also save you money on vets bills.

The Mouth and Teeth: Certain breeds of dog are more prone to tooth decay than others, but as a general rule, all dogs should have some kind of oral hygiene routine. There are many ways to keep dogs’ teeth and gums clean and healthy, including a number of toys designed for oral hygiene (check your local pet store for these toys), feeding dry foods and limiting wet food, and regular cleaning. For some dogs, such as Poodles, it is important to brush their teeth on a weekly basis. Special toothbrushes and toothpastes are available at your local pet store.

Trouble Signs: Growths on Lips, Excessive Salivation, Pain when moving the jaw, lips or tongue, Malodorous breath, Inflamed tissue about the teeth, Swollen and/or painful tongue, Inflamed or tender gums, Bleeding gums, Loose teeth.

The Digestive System: The digestive system can be adversely affected by many different ailments and diseases, some of which can be very serious and/or life threatening. If you spot any of the trouble signs below, you should have you dog checked out immediately.

Trouble Signs: Excessive Salivation, Reluctance to eat or drink, Expulsion of white or frothy mucous material from the throat, Pain when swallowing, Coughing, Fever, Vomiting, Tiredness or Listlessness, Constipation, Emaciation, Dehydration, Blood in vomit or stool, Worms or worm eggs in stool, Watery or soft bowel movements, Straining when defecating, Frequent biting at the anal region, Indigestion, Pain when being picked up, Rapid weight loss, Weakness, disorientation or confusion, Trembling, Spasmodic Twitching, and Convulsions.

If you notice these symptoms or anything else you are unsure of you should contact your vet immediately early detection of problems will save your pet more discomfort in the long run.

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Dog Training – The Name Game

Of all the things you can teach your dog, this first exercise will probably be the most appreciated and most used. We like to call this the “Name Game” and as the title suggests, this exercise is designed for your dog to learn his name!

This lesson can be done on-leash or off-leash, any time and anywhere. However, you should start off in a quiet, controlled environment until your dog responds well to this exercise. We have found that the best way to train your dog is short frequent training sessions, so if you can 4 or 5 sessions of 10-15 minutes is better than one hour long session as your dog will begin to loose concentration if too much time is spent on the same thing.

Here’s how this is done:

Step 1.) Take your dog to a quiet place
Step 2.) Say your dog’s name and immediately give your dog a treat!

Don’t wait for your dog to respond. If he doesn’t look at you, jut put the treat right up to his nose. He will get the idea very soon!

What we are doing here is associating the sound of your dog’s name with receiving something great: the treat, so you want to avoid any extraneous movements on your part that could distract your dog from the sound of his name.

Step 3.) Wait until his attention is focused elsewhere again and repeat steps 1 and 2.

Practice this game several times throughout the day in different settings and with different distractions. Eventually, your dog will automatically respond to you any time he hears his name! You should do this and ensure your dog responds to his mane every time before you move on to any of the other training you have planned for your dog.

http://www.tall-indoor-dog-gates.com Tall indoor dog gates is a site dedicated to dog training and healthcare – give us a visit.

Dog Training - Sit - Simple but Effective

Teaching the sit is one of the more simple procedures, but can be vitally important. The method you will use is the lure-reward method. Basically, you will lure the dog into the desired position and reward him when he adopts the position. For this method to work the best, you should not say the word “sit” until your dog consistently responds to your lure, which will initially be the cue for him to sit.

Step 1.) Take your dog to a quiet place

Step 2.) Place a small treat in your hand, between your thumb and your index and middle fingers.

Step 3.) Say your dog’s name (if you have been practicing the Name Game, then your dog will respond by looking at you).

Step 4.) Show your dog that you have the treat in your hand by placing it near his nose, but do not let him grab it.

Step 5.) WITHOUT SAYING ANYTHING, move the treat over your dog’s head, toward his rump, as if you are going to place it right between his ears. If you do this correctly, your dog should respond by adopting a sitting position. If he does, immediately, say, “Good!” and give your dog the treat.

There is a rule that you will introduce at this point: once you give your dog a command, he should not do anything else at all until you tell him to. After sitting, there are two things that can happen next: 1. You can give another command such as “down” or “stay”, or 2. you can release him. Since at this point, he does not know any other commands to perform, the best thing to do is release him. So, if he sits and you reward him, then:

Step 6.) Say, “Okay!” happily and allow your dog to get up! Note: If you see that your dog is about to get and you have not said, “Okay”, then simply say, “okay” before he actually gets up, as if it were your idea in the first place.

Troubleshooting: If your dog did not sit:

If when you completed step 5 above, your dog jumped up to grab at the treat, then you were most likely holding the treat too high. Try again and this time keep the treat very close to your dog’s head.

If when you completed step 5 above, your dog backed up instead of sitting, then try the exercise again with your dogs rear-end in a corner (so that he can’t back up).

Practice this with your dog for several days, until he responds very well, almost without fail to your cue of moving the treat over his head, then move on to Phase Two!

Phase Two of The Sit

Now that your dog has mastered the technique and has learned to respond to your non-verbal cue, it is time to introduce the verbal command, “sit”.

Step 1.) Take your dog to a quiet place

Step 2.) Place the treat in your hand, as before

Step 3.) Say your dog’s name, followed by the word, “sit!” (e.g. “Fido, sit!”) You should say, “sit” as though you were commanding your dog to do so. Try to avoid using a tone of voice that suggests that you are “asking” your dog to sit.

Step 4.) Immediately give the non-verbal cue for your dog to sit, by moving the treat over his head, as in the last lesson.

Practice in this manner until your dog starts to respond (sit) as soon as you give the verbal command. Then, slowly fade out the use of the non-verbal command (moving the treat over his head). Remember to always release your dog from the sit position by saying, “Okay!” in an excited tone of voice.

http://www.tall-indoor-dog-gates.com Tall indoor dog gates is a site dedicated to dog training and healthcare – give us a visit.

Dog Training Equipment You Will Need

Training your dog to perform basic obedience commands can enhance your relationship with him, boost his confidence, and overall, help both of you to lead a more peaceful and happy life together! A well-trained, well-mannered dog is truly a great companion to share your life with! In order to begin training your dog, you will need certain items that will facilitate the learning process. First of all, you will need some type of collar. We recommend using a flat, nylon buckle collar, or for very small dogs, a harness. The collar can also serve to display your dog’s identification tags in case he gets lost.

In addition to the nylon collar, you will need a 6-foot leash. You may choose any material type that you please, but we recommend using a nylon leash. Leather leashes also work very well, but can sometimes be a temptation for your dog to chew on. Metal chain leashes can be very hard on the hands during training and retractable leashes tend to be very cumbersome and hard to handle for training purposes. Nylon leashes are durable, comfortable to use and generally long-lasting.

Another essential tool for training your dog is some kind of motivator. Different dogs will be motivated by different things, so the best way to choose a motivator is to get to know your dog! Generally speaking though, nearly all dogs will respond to food or treats and those that do not, will most often respond to toys or just love and attention. For the purposes of this training ebook, we will focus on using treats as the main motivator for your dog. If your dog is motivated by toys or attention, then simply use that in place of the treats. We recommend using soft, easily breakable treats, as opposed to hard, crumbly treats. The reason being that hard treats tend to crumble onto the ground and can distract your dog from learning because he will be too busy picking up the crumbs from the ground! You will want to break the treats into very small pieces, so that they last longer and so that your dog does not start to feel full and lose interest in the treats while you are still training.

This last tool is absolutely essential to any training program. Make sure you have this tool before beginning any training exercise and, in fact, anytime you are working with you dog at all. The tool is: A Positive Attitude!! Always approach training your dog with a fun and positive outlook. Your dog will most likely pick up on your mood and respond in kind. The idea is for training to be fun and enjoyable for both of you. If you start to feel frustrated, then take a break. If you feel stressed at all, then leave training until later.

So, gather up your training equipment, round up your dog, and get ready to start training.

http://www.tall-indoor-dog-gates.com Tall indoor dog gates is a site dedicated to dog training and healthcare – give us a visit.

Caring for your Dog's Coat, Eyes and Ears

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! The best way to prevent disease is to keep your dog healthy and in the best shape you possibly can. Feed him good quality food, give him plenty of exercise, and keep his living quarters as clean as possible. If you take care of these basic needs, your dog will be much better equipped to fight off diseases that come along.

Inevitably, even the healthiest of dogs will become sick at some point and the key to getting them well again is being able to identify the signs of illness and take proper action. In this section, we will be focusing on specific areas of the dog, how those areas should appear and function normally, and what signs to look for that point to potential health problems.

Keep in mind that this is a general overview of dog care, and is by no means a comprehensive text. If you have any questions about symptoms your dog is exhibiting, don’t delay in contacting your veterinarian. The Coat: The state of your dog’s coat can be a good indicator of overall health. The coat should be bright, with a healthy lustre and shine. It should not be overly dry and should spring back into place when moved. Daily brushing will help keep your dog’s coat healthy and shiny by removing dead hairs and debris, and stimulating oil production in the skin. It also gives you a great chance to bond with your dog and serves as a good time to inspect for fleas and ticks. Several dietary factors will also help keep your dog’s coat looking good. Foods made with lamb and rice formulas as well as dietary supplements promote healthy coat.

Keep your eye out for the following conditions that could indicate that there is a problem: Dry Coat, Dandruff, Excessive Scratching, Patches of Missing Hair, Lesions, Crusted Areas, Scaling, Red Patches or Sores, Growths or Lumps and External Parasites (fleas and ticks).

If you observe any of these conditions on your dog, take him to the vet right away! If you find any parasites, you may want to consider purchasing an over-the-counter flea and tick shampoo or insecticide application from your local pet store. Your vet may have several parasite control options available as well that can be extremely effective at eliminating and preventing infestations. The Eyes: The eyes should be bright and clear, with no signs of cloudiness. They should be checked regularly for any abnormalities.

Trouble Signs: Inflammation of the Eyelids, Runny Eyes, Pus in or around the eyes, Crustiness on the Eyelids, Abnormal Thickening or Swelling of the Eyelids, Irritation of the Eyes, or Surrounding Area, Abnormal Colouring or Spots in the Cornea, Cloudiness, and Protrusion of the Third Eyelid.

The Ears: You should check your dog’s ears on a regular basis. They should appear clean, healthily pink, and should not emit any odour. Floppy eared dogs are more prone to ear problems, including infection. Any dirt of debris can be gently cleaned with a damp cotton ball. But be careful not to push the cotton too far into the ear canal, as this can seriously injure your dog’s ear!

Trouble Signs: Excessive Scratching or Self-Mutilation, Sores or Scratches, Redness or Irritation, Foul Odour, Growths, Parasites.

http://www.tall-indoor-dog-gates.com Tall indoor dog gates is a site dedicated to dog training and healthcare – give us a visit.

Tall Indoor Dog Gates – How They Can Help With Your Dog Training & Your Family's Safety

When you have a dog in the house it is vital that he knows who is in charge and what he is allowed to do, he must also know what the rules of the house are.

If you do not set the rules for your dog he will think that he is in charge and set the rules himself, this can result in a dog that is very hard to train and who might become aggressive. One way to avoid such problems is to set firm boundaries that the dog is not allowed to cross, you might decide that he is not allowed in the kitchen or up stairs, this will give the message to the dog that because you are in charge you have access to every area of the home but the dog as a lower (although much loved) member of the family (or pack as the dog will see it) only has access to some areas.

Obviously you are not going to be in the same room as the dog 24/7 and if you were to go from the front room to the dining room you could not reasonably be expected to shut the dog in the front room every time to stop him wondering off, If you did do this it might cause some separation anxiety, as the dog is unable to see through the door and does not understand why you have left him.

If you have a tall indoor dog gate fitted, and they can be fitted with out leaving marks on the door or wall, then all you need do is open it walk through and close it, there is now a barrier between you and the dog, so he is unable to go into the restricted areas of the house, but the dog can see through it and the anxiety is no longer a problem.

If you have a dog that jumps up and misbehaves when you have visitors, an easy way of solving this problem is to shut the dog in a room where he can see the door that your guests are coming through but because you have put up a tall indoor dog gate he is unable to get into the same room as your visitors.

He will be excited when your visitors arrive and want to be centre of attention (this is most likely why he misbehaves) the idea of the barrier is to allow him to take some time to calm down at the thought of the visitors and once he has you may open the tall indoor dog gate and let him join your guests. Once the initial excitement has worn off he can greet your visitors in a much more acceptable manor, this technique is remarkably effective and after a short time the gate becomes unnecessary as the dog recognises to be calmer when people come to your house.

If you decide to allow your dog to go upstairs then a tall indoor dog gate is essential to stop him bolting down the stairs and hurting himself. If you do not have a barrier at the top of the stairs then the dog could run down them and loose control, and a run can very easily turn in to a fall. With a tall indoor dog gate in place you can control when the dog goes down the stairs and you can be on hand to ensure the slow decent.

I hope these observations have helped you think about the need of getting some tall indoor dog gates for your home, they can help with training and with the safety of your pet and family.

http://www.tall-indoor-dog-gates.com Tall indoor dog gates is a site dedicated to all aspects of dog care and training.

The Overweight Dog - Man's Best Friend May be More Like Their Owners Than You Might Think

Obesity is one of the major health hazards and life shorteners of pet dogs. Its causes and effects are the same as with humans, and so is the cure. The majority of cases are due to excess calories, and not enough exercise, rather than a disorder. Dogs overeat for the same reasons we do, and more often because of boredom than hunger. When a dog is given little mental and physical activity, mealtime becomes the high point of his day.

Like humans, the dog may transfer his craving for affection into compulsive gluttony. A healthy dog who leads a well-balanced life, complete with affection and companionship is s seldom overweight. Some breeds are prone to overeating due to their keen sense of smell, or from being over fed because they are inside dogs. Puppies gain pounds rapidly during their growth period, but once an adult dog has reached his ideal weight, you should try to keep it stable by weighing him at least once a month.

It’s a simple matter to shed a few pounds by putting your dog on a diet for a week or so. By increasing the proportion of vegetables maintaining the normal level of protein, and reducing the fat and starch, the excess weight can be shed fast and safely. But never completely eliminate any of the basic nutritional elements.

Once obesity sets in, the problem is much more difficult and the cure more painful. Until the dog has formed new eating habits, you must resist the temptation to give in and overfeed. Make it up to him by giving him more activity, distraction and affection. If you must give in, you can reward with a dog biscuit, a raw carrot, an apple, or a bone. With time and patience your dog will be slimmer and healthier in no time.

Randy Jones and his partner Brent Jones have been in the pet industry for a long time. Recently they formed the website http://joncopets.com/ on the site, customers can read articles about anything pets as well as shop for the latest trendy items for their best friend. Feel free to check out the site at http://joncopets.com/

How to Keep Your Pit Bull's Attention While Dog Training

There are certain rules that you should follow every single time you work on training your Pit Bull Terrier. One of these things is making sure that you are training him in an area where there aren’t lots of distractions. Distractions can be an important tool used for training your Pit Bull Terrier, however it is important to get the basics down before doing so.

When your dog has mastered the basic commands that you've taught him and is excelling in his obedience training exercises without distractions, it is at this point that you can begin introducing outside distractions to challenge him more. Doing this is a great dog training strategy that will teach him to follow your commands even when there are other things going on around him.

Your ultimate goal is to have your Pit Bull obey your commands regardless of location or environment. As your dog progresses in his training, you’ll be able to give him a command in the middle of a crowded area and he’ll obey you. This is an important thing for not only his safety, but the safety of other people and animals as well. Having a well-trained dog can eliminate many of the horror stories you hear related to owning a dog.

You should also learn to prevent your dog’s mistakes by learning what makes him falter. For example, if you’ve given the sit stay command to your Pit and he starts to get up, correct him immediately so he learns. You’ll definitely know when he is getting ready to break the command by the signs he gives. He may bite or lick his paw, act uneasy and figity, etc. Whatever your dog does when his attention is beginning to stray, recognize it and work on regaining his attention.

To learn all about Pit Bull dogs and training a Pit Bull, visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

The Benefits of Training, Socialization and Exercise

I would like to share my professional opinion on the benefits of training. Through training you will build a strong lifelong bond between you and your dog. A well-behaved dog is more likely to become an active member of your family. Well-socialized, trained dogs make it easy for you to take them on vacations, to parks, and on visits to family members’ homes without it being stressful for either of you. Training requires consistency, motivation and timing. The main thing most people do not realize is that the training is for the owner as well as the dog. Dogs cannot think like we do, but we can surely think like them; we just need to learn how. Dogs are pack animals, and in their pack there is always a leader, the Alpha. We just need to understand how to become an alpha. Communication is the key. The alpha dictates everything to the pack; she/ he will teach boundaries as well as what is acceptable and what is not. If we train like we are the alpha then it is instinctual for the dog to understand that we are in charge.

Socialization

Builds your dog’s temperament, and an even-tempered dog is less likely to be aggressive or fearful and will have fewer behavioral problems. Dogs that have been exposed to many different people, places and objects are much easier to train as well. If dogs are not exposed to different places, people, terrains and objects they can build up a fear of anything new or of any change in their routine. Always make sure your dog is fully immunized before you start any socialization. Check with your veterinarian first before any socialization occurs. People do not realize that dogs must be exposed to as simple a thing as sand, for example. I had a client call me while on her vacation; she was stunned that the dog she thought was well-socialized would not get on the beach. Her dog was scared of the sensation of her feet sinking into the sand. Now she remembered I had told her to take her puppy to sand early on, so there would not be an avoidance of it later in the dog’s life. She found out the hard way that socialization has many forms, shapes and textures. Another example involved a lady that moved into a new home where there were 4 stair wells. One was outside off a deck and you could see through to the other side, a very scary situation for some dogs. Now the dog is 2 ½ years old and does not know how to go up or down stairs. The importance of socialization is tremendous. The main thing we all want is a well- mannered, well-behaved dog, and this can be accomplished through Socialization and Training.

Exercise

Dogs build up a level of stress and energy everyday which can determine how they interact with you, your kids and other dogs. Exercise releases stress and energy. Your dog needs exercise every day for this release. A bored dog can become a "bad dog", whereas an exercised dog leads to a calm, well- behaved dog. Remember, an exhausted dog does nothing wrong! One form of exercise is getting your dog interested in a ball or Frisbee. Find places (if you do not have a fenced back yard) to allow your dog to run. Long walks are helpful, but running releases the most amount of energy and stress. Allow your dog to have "dog time" where he/she can just be a dog, and run, jump, play, chew and dig. Most of a dog's natural behaviors are what we want a dog not to do; seems a little unfair, don’t you think? Dogs naturally greet one another by jumping, mouthing, and smelling. Within their pack the greeting is a big deal. There is competition for attention, and that naturally raises the dog’s energy level. You can teach a dog another way to greet you besides jumping, through training and consistency . Dogs are social animals and want to be with their "pack"- you are their pack. Have fun! Exercise, Socialize and Train your dog and the rest is simple!

Susie Aga
Atlanta Dog Trainer Susie was chosen by Turner Broadcasting to be their featured Pet Expert. She is a member in good standing with the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. Her training includes, but is not limited to, Basic through Advanced Obedience, Off Leash, Agility and Behavior Modification. She has four rescue dogs of her own and donates much of her time and services to Rescue Organizations. You can truly say her life has gone to the dogs and that is just the way SHE WANTS IT!

A Trained Dog Makes a Happy Owner! A Trained Owner Makes a Happier Dog!

How to get a Pet Passport

To help with allowing pets into the UK and also allowing them to travel around the European Union without having to go into quarantine the government requires they have a pet passport. The passport is issued by a government-authorised vet known as a local Veterinary Inspector (LVI) if your local veterinary surgery does not have a registered LVI working with them they should be able to give you the contact details for one in your area.

At the time of writing this article DEFRA the government department responsible for the overseeing of pet passports does not charge a fee for the passport, although you should check this yourself as with all information it is subject to change with out prior warning.

To get the passport your pet must have a microchip fitted, this is lodged under the skin and allows vets and government officials to scan the animal to check that it is the same one documented on the pet passport. After the microchip has been fitted your pet must be vaccinated against rabies. There is no exemption to this requirement, even if your pet has a current rabies vaccination. The final part of the procedure is a blood test; the test is to check that the vaccine has given your pet the correct level of protection against rabies.

Once you have the pet passport you can leave the UK for any European Union country but you must wait for 6 months after the blood sample that showed clear was taken before you can bring your pet back into the UK. This does not mean that you need to keep your pet out of the country for 6 months it just means that you should plan ahead, if you know that you plan to go to France until the beginning of September you should have had the blood test cleared by the previous February, it is a case of planning ahead.

Your vets should be able to help with all of the points outlined above, but I hope that this has given you a clearer guide to what you need to do, the passport is valid for two years for entry back in to the UK from the date of the vaccination although some other countries only give a year, so it is better to get it done sooner rather than later, to check for the latest details the DEFRA website is http://www.defra.gov.uk and there contact details can be found there.

http://www.tall-indoor-dog-gates.com Tall indoor dog gates is a site dedicated to dog training and healthcare – give us a visit.

Senior Dogs are Trainable

Are you considering adopting an older or rescued dog? Older dogs are great family members and need homes. Depending on the breed, senior dogs are often are more subdued than a puppy and therefore easier on your home. But what about behaviors learned or tolerated by a previous owner? Senior dogs can be still be trained using a few tried and true ideas! Just as with puppies it will take time and patience but the outcome is worth it. A trained dog will be a happier dog because he will know what is expected of him.

5 TIPS for Teaching NEW Tricks to Older Dogs

1. Use the proper tone when communicating with your dog: High/Enthusiastic—Use for Praising (i.e. “Good Dog!”) Demanding/Authoritative—Use for Commands (i.e. “Sit!”) Growly/Low—Use for reprimanding (i.e. “Bad Dog!”)

2. Give a command only once. This teaches your dog to listen the first time.

3. Hands Off when giving a command. Touching or petting distracts from training.

4. Recall (or “Come”) is the most pleasant of all commands for your dog. Never reprimand a dog that finally comes to you…even if you had to chase him through the neighborhood before he obeyed. He needs to know that you will lavish praise and pet him when he comes to you!

5. Training not to jump up on people and furniture is best done with a metal can or box with 10 pennies, stones or marbles taped inside. For convenience, it is a good idea to have several cans located in various areas throughout your home. Shake the can up and down once or twice whenever your dog jumps up. Remember to reprimand with the low tone at the same time. The noise will startle the dog and eventually the behavior will stop.

Copyright 2006 Dave Eckholm/www.olddogpaws.com

Dave Eckholm is the owner and creator of http://www.olddogpaws.com, a site dedicated to the care and comfort of our old friends. As our dog Tikki began to lose his eyesight and became grey around his muzzle, we were concerned for his quality of life. As a senior dog, he started to have special needs. We searched for new ideas, resources and products to enhance his life. Old Dog Paws shares this information with all dog lovers so your friend can enjoy wonderful senior years too!

Caring For Unthrifty and Premature Shih Tzu Puppies

If this is your Shih Tzu matron's first litter she may become nervous or even terrified. Your attitude at this time is very important. The manner in which a Shih Tzu matron accepts or rejects her offspring is often in direct response to your attitude or even the whelping box site.

Normal Shih Tzu puppies are plump and firm at birth. They have good muscle and skin tones. The skin on the abdomen, feet and mouth is pink. If Shih Tzu puppies cry continuously or constantly squirm and crawl, these are signs of infant distress. Well-nourished, healthy Shih Tzu puppies are warm, quiet and sleep most of the time. They yawn at awakening. Do not excessively handle newborn Shih Tzu puppies. Do not allow others to handle newborn Shih Tzu puppies. Only the breeder or caretaker should handle newborn Shih Tzu puppies. Excessive handling of more than one person increases the chance of transmission of infections to the newborns.

Unthrifty Puppies

Unthrifty Shih Tzu puppies have poor muscle tone. Obvious signs of discomfort are constant crying and initially high levels of activity. Unthrifty Shih Tzu puppies appear thinner than siblings and are limp to touch because of poor muscle and skin tones. Unthrifty Shih Tzu puppies may feel cold to your touch or cooler than their siblings. The skin over the abdomen, feet and mouth interiors may appear reddish purple or paled when compared to other siblings.

An unthrifty Shih Tzu puppy is usually incapable of sustained nursing and readily loses nipple contact with the dam. They become easily chilled. Such unthrifty Shih Tzu puppies may respond positively to a few milliliters of raw liver juice fed daily for their first few weeks. Supplementary tube or bottle feeding for three or four days every four hours around the clock may be necessary. If you notice a weak, unthrifty Shih Tzu puppy, remove it from the litter and maintain it in the puppy box. You can place the Shih Tzu puppy back on the dam at regular intervals under your close supervision. This way the dam is able to stay in touch with the weak unthrifty Shih Tzu puppy. She will stimulate elimination, clean and nurture them at this time. This regular periodic tactile time helps avoid failure-to-thrive syndrome. Many weak and unthrifty Shih Tzu puppies can be successfully saved.

Premature Puppies

The first 24 hours are critical to premature Shih Tzu puppies. They must be maintained on an hourly schedule. The next 48 hours requires an every 2 hour schedule around the clock. The following 48 hours can be stretched to a 3-hour schedule around the clock. By the fifth day, premature Shih Tzu puppies, can be changed to 4-hour intervals. At one week, the night feedings only can be set to a 6-hour schedule, resuming 4-hour intervals during the day. This is a highly intense schedule for a breeder or Shih Tzu puppy mid-wife. It must be maintained until the premature Shih Tzu puppies are ready for their first semisolid foods at about 13 days of age and after their eyes have opened. Many premature Shih Tzu puppies can be saved on this routine.

Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Designer pet clothing is offered on the website. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Dog Collars - What You Need To Know

What's The Best Type Of Dog Collar?

Getting the right dog collar for your dog is one of the most important things you can do for your dog. Your dog will probably spend most of it's life with it's collar on, so getting a good comfortable hard wearing dog collar is essential. Luckily for the more style conscious amongst you, modern designer dog collars can be fashionable too! Finding the best type of dog collar for you , will depend on your dog and what the main use for the collar will be.

What is a dog collar for, and is it essential?

The main use for a dog collar is probably the most obvious - controlling your dog. Used in combination with a dog leash, a dog collar can provide you with a certain amount of control to prevent your dog wandering off or straying into road traffic when out walking. There are other uses for a dog collar such as dog or puppy training. Also, you can incorporate your dog's identity and your contact information within the dogs collar, in the event your dog gets lost.

Choosing the correct size of dog collar is important. Having a collar that is too small can cause your dog harm and at best will leave your dog feeling uncomfortable. Similarly, having a collar that is too big will enable your dog to easily slip out of it. Also, the width and material of the collar neeeds to match the size of your dog or puppy. A heavy duty leather collar will not be much good for a Chihuahua and neither will a lightweight nylon collar be any good on a Rotweiller.

A good rule of thumb, is to make sure that on a large dog, you can slip two fingers between the dogs throat and the collar. Also ensure the collar can rotate easily, but not slip over the dogs ears. On smaller dogs, ensure the collar can rotate easily and does not cause any breathing problems. Make sure it cannot pull over the dogs ears. Remember that in the right situation, many dogs can become little Houdini's in their own right.

There are many different types of dog collar available. There are sporting collars, designer collars, personalized collars. We will be covering a few main types. These are as follows.

Standard Dog Collar

Dog Training Collars

Electric Dog Collar or Dog Shock Collar

Standard Dog Collar

The standard dog collar is what your dog would wear for everyday use and can come in a variety of materials. Most common these days is the Nylon collar. These come in all sorts of colors and sizes. The main advantage of a nylon collar is it's price. These collars are very cheap yet provide a superb durability in that they don't tend to rot and when wet will dry out quickly. Alternative types such as leather collars tend to have a more asthetic natural appeal. A good quality leather collar could easily last the lifetime of your dog. An extension to this are the designer dog collar or fashion collars. These can extend to anything from a simple fashionable pattern or designer name, to a rhinestone dog collar for more special occasions.

The dog collar that you will be using most should be comfortable for your dog and secure, although for lapdogs where the collar can be more of a fashion accessory being comfortable is the priority. For larger dogs, a strong hardwearing collar is a must.

Dog Training Collar

A dog training collar is - as the name suggests - used mainly during training. The type of training will dictate the type of collar.

For obedience training, a choke collar or 'choke chain' would be best suited. These collars comprise of a slip loop that tightens around the dogs neck if it pulls on a leash too much. When the dog stops pulling, the chain loosens off. Many people consider the use of a choke collar as unnecessary but used in the right circumstances, this type of collar can be an effective training aid. It is extremely important to only use a choke collar when training and when the dog is supervised. You must NEVER let your dog out alone with a choke collar on. If the dog becomes caught on something they may easily choke themselves.

Electric Dog Collar or Dog Shock Collar

Electric dog collars or as they are sometimes known 'dog shock collars' and 'anti bark collars' tend to be used to discourage a certain behaviour in a dog. More often than not these are used to control unnecessary barking. These collars consist of a sensor to detect the bark and a pair of electrodes or similar to administer a small harmless shock to the dog. More advanced devices can adjust the level of the shock depending upon how many shocks have been administered before. The main problem with these devices is that the dog is being consistently punished for it's bad behaviour. This may seem ideal initialy but it is far from this.

Training a dog involves much more than punishing the dog every time it is bad. In fact, using positive reinforcement and praise when the dog stops behaving badly can have a much more positive effect. Getting to the root of the behavioural problem is the best approach. Only then can a preventative training method be implemented. Consider the case of a dog that chews and barks because it misses it's owner during the day. The barking and chewing is a product of the dog feeling anxious. If the dog recieves an electrical shock every few minutes, that anxious behaviour will be compounded. Read this article for further training information.

For cases where the owner is not present, a far more humane method of discouragement can be implemented. This involves a similar type of collar that detects a bark but the collar releases a natural spray of Citronella that discourages the dogs behaviour. These can be used as a complementary method to other training.

Article By Andrew Strachan. Find lots more information about different dog breeds and types of dogs at http://www.types-of-dogs.com. Lots of help and advice too.

Housebreaking Your Dog

Housebreaking your dog is an important step in ensuring a successful lifelong relationship between you and your dog. Dogs are creatures of habit; and once they develop a habit, breaking it can be a long, frustrating process. Your dog needs guidance and encouragement from you to develop a toilet habit you can live with. Animal behaviorists have learned a lot about dogs over the last couple of decades-including tidbits that will make housebreaking your dog a less frustrating task.

It might be difficult to believe (considering some of the things your dog will roll in or put in her mouth), but dogs have specific sanitary requirements. They will go to great lengths to avoid soiling near where they eat and/or sleep. That means any "accidents" an un-housebroken dog has will be far from its food dish and bed. To a dog, "far" in this case means about 6-10 feet. This leaves lots of "fair game" space in your home, unless you guide her to identify a suitable spot.

Whether your dog is a puppy or an adult dog, new to your home, the process is the same. Every few hours, as well as 30 minutes after she has eaten, take your dog outside to a designated "bathroom" spot. Stay in the vicinity, and praise her lavishly when she finishes relieving herself. If she fails to "go," take her back inside, and keep her confined and under careful watch for about 15 minutes, then take her back outside. During the interval, if you see her circling and sniffing intensely, take her outside immediately. Sniffing and circling are signs she is about to empty her bladder or bowels. By recognizing the signs and taking her outside, you are helping her connect the urge to go to the bathroom with going outside.

The amount of time it takes for housebreaking dogs depends partly on her personality (is she eager to please or a rebel) but mostly on your diligence in taking her outside at the right time. If your puppy is less than four months old, you should plan on getting up during the night to take her outside. Puppies over four months of age can usually "hold it" through the night, but if your dog cries to be let out, it is best to get up and let her tend to her urge. It is vital that you give your dog every chance to succeed during this time. Positive reinforcement of the proper behavior is the fastest way to housebreaking your dog.

Accidents happen, and when they do, your response will affect how quickly your dog learns to "go" outside. If you catch your dog in mid-squat, clap your hands or call her name loudly. Your goal is to distract her. Once you have her attention, quietly and calmly take her outside. Be sure to praise her when she finishes relieving herself. If you find a wet spot or droppings on the floor when your dog is not around, simply clean it up. If your dog approaches to investigate what you are doing, ignore her. Do not talk to her or pet her at this moment. Above all else, avoid yelling at her or physically punishing her. She will not connect your rage to the mess she made, but your violence will make her afraid of you-and that's not what you want from your canine companion.

Article By Andrew Strachan. Find lots more information about different dog breeds and types of dogs at http://www.types-of-dogs.com. Lots of help and advice too.

Dog Flu - What You Need To Know

Over the past few years, there has been a lot of information in the news about dog flu or as it is otherwise known, canine flu. More recently, a new bird flu or avian flu has emerged that has been spreading to humans too. With all this going on, it’s enough to make you want to lock the doors, keep your dog safely hidden away and wait for it all to pass!

The good news is, you and your dog don’t have to go into hiding to avoid catching anything. A few simple precautions will keep you safe and allow you and your dog to enjoy the outdoors to the full.

Let’s start out by outlining some hard facts about dog flu or canine flu. The highly contagious virus which is responsible for canine flu was originally spotted in around 2004 in the greyhound racing population. Many dogs died as a result and many more taken ill. That said, the virus is shown to be deadly in only 10% of the most susceptible dogs. I.e. Young puppies or older dogs whose immune systems are weakened.

More recently, canine flu has entered the domestic dog population. Although this may be the case, there are steps you can take to protect your dog.

Firstly, be aware that the AVMA (American Veterinary Medical Association) has recommendations for good infection control practices. Wherever you take your dog be it a groomer, pet store, boarding kennel, animal shelter or dog show, always ensure that they meet the AVMA standards. Any place that your dog is likely to be closely contained with other dogs in greater numbers than usual, always check those guidelines are being met.

You need to enquire as to how they cope with suspected dog flu cases. How do they isolate dogs that develop symptoms? Do they have a vet on call? When/how do they notify owners that their dog is showing symptoms. Asking all these questions will help you assess whether your dog will be o.k. there.

Additionally, if you think that you may have come into contact with a dog carrying the canine flu virus, wash your hands and clothes and anything you may have touched. Do this before coming into contact with other animals.

At the time of writing this article, there is no available vaccination for the canine flu. If you feel your dog may have canine flu or been exposed to canine flu, do not take them anywhere where other dogs will be congregating. Seek veterinary advice immediately.

If your dog does have dog flu the good news is that most dogs will recover in anything from 10 to 30 days. Most dogs will suffer with a persistent cough and a runny nose.

More severe cases will involve a fever and possibly pneumonia. The use of an intravenous may be needed with a course of antibiotics. Most dogs will recover from canine flu if cared for properly by a veterinarian.

Luckily, there is no evidence at the moment to suggest that people are at risk from catching dog flu. If you are worried about this then you can breathe easy.

Originally, the canine flu stemmed from the equine influenza virus which has been around for over 40 years. In this time, there has been no evidence to suggest anybody has caught the flu virus from a horse that had contracted it.

If you have concerns about dog flu, don’t fear taking your dog for walks or meeting other dogs. Your dog needs to exercise and socialize as much as ever. The best course of action would be to take the above precautions mentioned in this article. Find out as much additional information as you can and just be aware. That way your dog gets to enjoy life, and stay safe at the same time.

Article By Andrew Strachan. Find lots more information about different dog breeds and types of dogs at http://www.types-of-dogs.com. Lots of help and advice too.

Choosing a New Puppy

When expecting a new puppy addition to the family you want nothing but the best. You check out the best day-care facilities, kindergarten and schooling.

So, why should it be any different when the new addition is a puppy? Hey, if it’s good enough for stars like Brittany and Paris, who are we to question this new trend in spoiling our pets.

Before buying your new puppy it is advisable to do some research and find out all you can about on the background, general behavior and sociability of the breed you have chosen. If you have young children, would a puppy be suitable? Stop and consider the future. When the puppy grows into a dog, will it still be as much fun? Will it outgrow your home?

It’s all too easy to overlook the fact that what is now a cute little puppy will grow into a dog that without proper training may become unruly and dangerous. Remember all dogs are born wild and need training. Once they know who is the leader… you and not them… they will settle into their new life quite happily.

When you bring your puppy home make sure their first night away from mom isn’t to stressful. Give your puppy a warm, comfortable bed to sleep in. A fleece blanket would be a good idea and maybe a small teddy bear or other type of soft toy to cuddle up too. This will help relax your puppy and stop it feeling alone.

The first 12–16 weeks of a puppy’s life are all important. This is the time of intense learning and getting the training right now, will reward you with a well-trained obedient dog.

One thing to remember is it won’t happen in a day. Done with regularity, persistence and a lot of patience over the coming weeks, you and your dog will soon have a great understanding and be the best of friends for many years to come.

Give your puppy time to settle into his new home (and have the necessary injections) then why not arrange a party. Everyone enjoys a party and what better way to introduce your puppy to other dogs and people. Invite your friends, and their dogs, to come and say “Hello”.

Now, lets get round to organizing the Puppy Shower. This isn’t as complicated as it may seem. Dogs are natural party animals and will certainly enjoy the day. The party is more to get the puppy used to other dogs and people so it’s no great shake to organize. Maybe decorate the party room with blue or pink balloons and streamers. Put up a “birthday” banner with pictures of your puppy on it. This will get the puppy used to strange things being around.

Make sure there are enough soft toys around for the doggie guest to play with, as this is a great way to teach your new puppy about sharing things. Some of the bigger doggie guests may be a bit to boisterous for the puppy, so watch carefully but don’t take him away from the fun, as he must learn to interact with others. They have to learn not be afraid or intimidated by other dogs.

Look after your new puppy well and you will have the best friend anyone could ever wish for.

Shirley Purdy is the creator of a popular dog birthday party website. Find a wealth of dog party themes, recipes, games, treats and our party planner at http://www.dog-birthday-parties.com

Is the Havanese the right Puppy for you?

Choosing the right dog for your home is a very important decision. You need to gather as much detail about the breeds you are considering as possible. The Havanese is a rapidly growing breed in terms of popularity. This then begs the question as to why? Lets look at some of the Physical Characteristics of this breed to determine if this breed is in fact a great choice for your home.

Physical Appearance Of The Havanese

1. General Appearance

Lets start by considering the standards set by the American Kennel Association. These are guidelines that breeders and dog show competitors must adhere to in order to succeed in the dog show business. You can obtain a more detailed listing of Havanese standards from the American Kennel Association.

The Havanese is small and sturdy in stature. The body of a Havanese is slightly longer than tall. A Havanese has untrimmed long, silky, wavy hair. Their coat is of a texture that does well in warm tropical climates. They have hair that falls over their eyes. This longer hair is usually not tied into a top knot because it can act as a protective layer from the bright sun. They have a plumed tail that is carried loosely over their hindquarters.

2. Physical Characteristics

The Havanese breed is a small dog. The Havanese is 7-13 pounds in weight. The American Kennel Club breed standard is more specific as to the proper size of a Havanese. According to the American Kennel Club a Havanese should be:

“The height range is from 8½ to 11½ inches, with the ideal being between 9 and 10½ inches, measured at the withers, and is slightly less than the length from point of shoulder to point of buttocks, creating a rectangular outline rather than a square one.”

The Havanese breed should have large dark brown almond shaped eyes that are set widely apart. They have medium length ears. The breed is small in stature, but is by no means fragile.

3. Coat and Color

The Havanese has a soft, long-haired double coat. The Havanese can vary in color including: cream, gold, silver, blue, and black.

It is essential to brush your Havanese daily so that their hair doesn’t become matted. It may take time to get your Havanese used to the daily brushing, but once they do, they might actually enjoy it. Make sure to keep their face clean as their eyes may produce a small tear discharge.

4. Gait

A Havanese is a toy dog with a spring in their step. This extra spice in their step is due to a strong rear drive paired with flashy front action from their upper arms.

The American Kennel Club depicts the Havanese gait as lively, elegant, resilient, and unique.

5. Showing Faults that Result in Disqualification

When showing a dog the judges are very cognizant of any “unacceptable” faults of the Havanese. Faults associated with physical appearance include the following characteristics:

• Height at withers under 8½ or over 11½ inches except that the minimum height range shall not apply to dogs or bitches less than twelve months of age.

• Complete absence of black (or chocolate in the chocolate dog) pigmentation on the eye rims, nose or lips.

• Coarse, wiry coat. An atypical short coat on an adult. (Atypical refers to a smooth, flat coat with, or without furnishings.)

Remember these “faults” are of most concern for show dogs. You can raise a Havanese that doesn’t bring home a dog show trophy, but will provide you with companionship, dedication, and protection.

As you continue your search for the RIGHT puppy to get, you really need to consider the Havanese Puppy. If you want more information about this dog, then visit http://www.havanese-puppy-guide.com

Fiona

Fiona Kelly is a passionate Havanese owner that has devoted countless hours sharing her secrets on how to have the perfect, happy, healthy and best behaved Havanese. If you’re interested in the Havanese then you can check out her web site at http://www.havanese-puppy-guide.com/

The Author grants you permission to re-print or re-publish this article so long as it remains unchanged and all links remain present and active.

Dog Obedience Training: Training Your Pit Bull Terrier to "Stay"

Dog training is most effective and useful when it is mixed in with the daily routines of dog’s and their owners. Teaching your Pit Bull terrier to “Sit” and “Stay” when you’re entering or exiting a house or car is a great example of useful training.

Basic dog training commands such as this are vital for the safety and well-being of your Pit Bull. Being able to control your dog’s behavior in certain situations with these commands protects him, yourself, and others.

Aside from simply training your Pit to “stay” before entering or exiting your house, it is also important to teach your dog to stay when opening the car door to let him out after traveling.

Just give your Pit the “Stay” command immediately before opening your car door. If he immediately jumps out when you open the car door, put him back in and repeat until he gets the exercise right. Be sure not to yell at him or scold him, calmly put him back inside the car and do things again. Once he stays put and listens to you, give him the “Okay!” command and allow him to get out of the car. Praise him excitedly at this point.

It is important for you to be consistent with you training efforts. Don’t give in to his bad behavior and make sure that you always assume the Alpha role.

When you have successfully taught your Pit the “stay” command, you should be able to tell your him to “stay” and then walk away without him following you.

To practice this, do it when your Pit Bull has just finished up exercising and is tired. Put the leash on him and place him in a “Sit” and “Stay” position a few feet from a closed doorway. Now, just open the door slowly and if your dog gets up, shut the door, put him back down into the sit position, and start over. Make sure to reward him with verbal praise as well as treats when he completes an exercise successfully. Best of luck with you training efforts!

To learn all about American Pitbull Terriers and training a Pitbull, visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

Grooming TipsExtend Your Dog's Life Using These Simple Grooming Tips

If your dog is an important part of your life, you will want to provide the best of care for her so she can enjoy a long and rewarding life. A trip or two each year to your veterinary clinic does not guarantee that your loyal canine will maintain her healthy appearance and youthful spirit. It is you, the dog's owner, who can make the difference between your dog living a long, full life or one of physical disease and health problems.

Many dogs are treated like they are immune from common heath problems - they are NOT! They suffer many of the same health issues that afflict humans; teeth and gum disease, ear infections, toe nail problems, and hair issues, just to name a few.

Well, don't get discouraged, because a few simple and easy grooming practices can help you prevent the premature aging of your pet. Basic personal dog grooming is the key to early recognition of skin and tumor issues, dental problems, and mobility difficulties.

To help you establish a regular dog grooming regimen, the following tips are provided covering five key areas; brushing, bathing, nail trimming, ear cleaning, and dental hygiene.

Brushing Your Dog

Brushing, or grooming, your dog is a great time for bonding with her and providing the physical contact that all dogs desire. This practice promotes a lustrous shine on the dog's coat, whiling eliminating dirt, debris, and dead fur.

This is also the perfect opportunity to examine your dog's skin for fleas and ticks, lumps, cuts, or contusions. And while you're at it, take a moment and examine her ears, eyes, teeth and nails.

Bathing Your Dog

Here is the good news - most dogs only need bathing once a month, unless she likes to play in the rain and mud. If she does get dirty on a regular basis, adjust your bathing schedule accordingly.

A prerequisite to bathing is a good brushing. This loosens up any dead hair or dirt and makes the bathing process much more productive. A good practice is to start bathing your dog as young as possible. Generally start when she is about 14-15 weeks old, or earlier, if they tend to get into messy situations.

Find a good location to bathe your dog, preferably one that is contained and has good drainage. Undoubtedly, water will be spilled or shaken near and far. An enclosed shower or tub is an ideal location, or if your dog is a smaller breed, the kitchen sink can also work.

Wet your dog thoroughly, avoiding her head to keep water out of her eyes and ears. Plug your dog's ears with cotton balls if there is a risk of flooding the ears. Use a dog shampoo and lather up the dog. Be sure to rinse thoroughly and squeeze off the excess water. The face should be washed with a soft, damp cloth. Towel dry your dog, and blow dry if desired, but it is best to keep her confined until dry.

Trimming Nails

Nail trimming can be a traumatic experience for some dogs. So, it is best to start the nail trimming experience as early as 2-3 months old to let your dog become accustomed to the practice. For puppies, you can often use finger nail clippers to tip the ends of the nails.

If this is just too much for your dog or puppy to handle all in one sitting, you may start with trimming only one paw at a time, giving your dog an extended break between sessions. The key to successful nail trimming is providing your dog lots of praise when she lets you cut a nail. Kind, soothing words of praise will let her know that she is loved and this experience is nothing to fear. Of course, a few dog treats after the session is over can't hurt either.

Cleaning Ears

Inspect your dog's ears often, but only clean them when there is evidence of dirt in the opening or canal. Use a cotton ball, never a cotton swab, to clean the dirt out of the ear. Soaking the cotton ball with a good ear cleaning solution provides the best results. Hydrogen peroxide can be substituted for the cleaning solution, if necessary.

If you notice that the dog's ears are red, swollen, or emit a foul smell, the problem might be more serious and demand veterinary attention. Yeast infections, ear mites, and other ear problems are more easily treated by medications only available from your vet.

Keeping a Bright Smile

As a dog's life span has been extended over the years, it is even more imperative that your dog maintain healthy teeth and gum tissue. You can assist her by brushing her teeth regularly. Start as early in life as possible, to get your dog accustomed to the feel of your finger or brush in her mouth.

Starting with your finger, or a special dog toothbrush fitted for your fingertip, begin massaging your dog's gums and gently rubbing her teeth. Once she has become accustomed to the practice, try using a dog toothbrush, or small soft bristled human toothbrush, with dog-specific toothpaste. Never use toothpaste designed for humans on your dog.

Continuing this practice throughout your dog's life will ensure that she will avoid gum disease, loose teeth, and related eating problems.

These easy-to-follow grooming tips take very little time compared to the years of enjoyment your dog will provide you and your family. Take care of your loving "best friend" and she will certainly return the favor many times over!

Bill Wilcox is a long time dog owner and experienced trainer. He is an avid author of dog care articles and writes for superior-dog-supplies.com and smart-dog-training.com. For more information visit: http://www.superior-dog-supplies.com
http://www.smart-dog-training.com

How To Choose The Right Dog Breeder

Have you ever purchased a car that was a lemon? Facing problem after problem robs you of the pleasure of enjoying your new car. Unfortunately, there are dogs that are lemons, too. A dog with health problems can lead to heartache and empty checkbooks. A good dog breeder will stand behind health guarantees and do everything possible to set things right if you end up with a dog that has a serious health defect.

There are several types of dog breeders. The first type is a person who shows dogs and works hard to maintain the breed standard. The puppies this breeder produces will often be more expensive than other puppies, but there are several advantages to buying one. These breeders test their dogs for common genetic diseases and they only breed their best dogs, because they are breeding dogs to acquire a new generation of champions. This means that the resulting puppies that are not show quality are usually still quite nice.

The second type of dog breeder is usually called a backyard breeder. These breeders rarely show dogs and often have a litter of puppies just because they want other people to have a dog just like theirs. Unfortunately, few backyard breeders test for diseases or know how to look for traits that match the breed standard.

The final type of dog breeder is often called a puppy mill breeder. These breeders have many different breeds of dogs and often breed their females until the dogs become run down and die. Puppies are frequently very poor examples of the breed and may have genetic health problems as well as diseases such as Kennel Cough.

Obviously, you want to find a good dog breeder. However, knowing the importance of finding a good dog breeder doesn't always make it easy to locate one. Fortunately, if you look for signs of a good breeder and ask the breeder the right questions, you should be able to tell if you've found a good breeder.

First, take a look at how the breeder is advertising. Breeders who advertise in newspapers are not necessarily unethical. Some of them love their dog breed, but do not care for the show world. However, be wary of an advertisement that lists puppies from five different dog breeds and a few poodle mixes thrown in for good measure.

Next, ask the breeder to allow you to stop in and look at the puppies. If the breeder refuses and offers to deliver the puppy or meets you outside with a portable pen full of puppies, it may very well be because of safety concerns. However, it could also mean that the breeder's kennel is dirty and the dogs are not cared for properly.

Once you've seen those adorable puppies, do not pull out your check book. Instead, ask the breeder whether they've been to a vet and ask about a health guarantee. Some breeders vaccinate the puppies themselves, but there is a chance they did not give the vaccinations correctly and that the puppies are still vulnerable to disease. Also, the puppies could have serious hereditary defects, such as a severe heart murmur, that a preliminary health exam would have uncovered.

Finally, ask for references from previous owners and get the name and phone number of the breeder's veterinarian. Then, go home and call the references and ask them about their experience with the breeder and ask how their puppies turned out. If you are satisfied with the response of the references, call the veterinarian to verify that the breeder really did bring the puppies in.

Now, you can finally buy your new puppy. Of course, first you will have to decide which of those little balls of fluff is the right dog for you!

Article By Andrew Strachan. Find lots more information about different dog breeds and types of dogs at http://www.types-of-dogs.com. Lots of help and advice too.

Nutritional Needs of Senior Dogs

Nutritional needs change as a dog ages. Many breeds of dogs enter their senior years at 5-7. Like humans, as dogs’ age, their metabolism slows down. Obesity is one of the most common afflictions facing senior dogs. Stiff joints and muscles leave them wanting to run around less. As an owner of a senior dog, it is important to keep your dog exercising and it becomes more important than ever for your dog to get proper nutrition.

Quality dog foods will breakdown the specific ingredients. Read the label to make certain your dog is getting the best food for his needs.

In 100 grams of food there should be:

1.2 Grams of Fiber
0.55 Grams of Calcium
14 or Less Grams of Protein
9 or Less Grams of Fat
Less than 0.28 Grams of Sodium
Less than 0.33 Grams of Phosphorous

Vitamins also are important to the mature dog.

Vitamin B……………aids metabolism and appetite
Vitamin A……………aids muscles and eyes
Vitamin E…………….aids muscles and eyes

Shopping Tips for Dog Food from the Animal Protection Institute

Meat should be the first ingredient. The label should have the AAFCO Guarantee. Avoid if corn is listed two or more times in the top 5 ingredients. Check expiration date. Avoid foods with chemical preservatives like ethoxyquin, BHT, and BHA. Look for foods with natural preservatives such as tocopherols, Vitamin C and Vitamin E. Avoid bone meal, meat meal and other by-product ingredients. Rice is the most digestible of all grains. If grain is in the formula, rice is a good choice.

As always, check with your veterinarian before changing diet and supplements. Your vet can often recommend a prescription dog food that will be just right for your pet’s changing needs. Keep your dog moving and eating right so you both can enjoy his senior years!

Dave Eckholm is the owner and creator of http://www.olddogpaws.com, a site dedicated to the care and comfort of our old friends. As our dog Tikki began to lose his eyesight and became grey around his muzzle, we were concerned for his quality of life. As a senior dog, he started to have special needs. We searched for new ideas, resources and products to enhance his life. Old Dog Paws shares this information with all dog lovers so your friend can enjoy wonderful senior years too!

Learning to Tube Feed Shih Tzu Puppies

It is not difficult to learn the correct tube feeding procedure. Purchase the tube feeder through your veterinarian, who will be able to equip you with the correct diameter catheter and syringe size for your Shih Tzu. Sterilize both catheter and syringe between early feedings. The syringe will have graduated markings on the side to record accurate intake. You will need a bowl or large measuring cup for warm water, a candy thermometer and a nontoxic indelible pen or dull knife.

1. Place water heated to 100 degrees Fahrenheit in the bowl or measuring cup.
2. Heat the formula separately (also to 100 degrees Fahrenheit) using the candy thermometer to regulate the temperatures of both liquids.
3. Put the thermometer, syringe, catheter and warmed formula into the bowl of water for transport to the Shih Tzu puppy.

Each puppy should be measured for gavage feeding. Correct measurement is crucial to the Shih Tzu puppy’s well-being.

1. Lay each puppy flat on it side on a towel.
2. Measure the catheter from the rounded tip held at a point just behind the Shih Tzu puppy’s last rib, along the side of the chest and throat, to just in front of the Shih Tzu puppy’s muzzle.
3. Mark the spot of the Shih Tzu puppy’s muzzle on the catheter with the pen or dull knife.

If you get the catheter too short, the formula may be aspirated by the Shih Tzu puppy. If you introduce a catheter too long it can puncture through the newborn Shih Tzu’s delicate stomach wall. Have your vet walk you through the procedure.

If the end of the catheter is too wide to allow attachment to the syringe, sever the catheter directly behind the beginning of the flute to allow secure attachment to the syringe. Now that you have the syringe attached, place the catheter end into the warmed formula and withdraw the syringe from the plunger. Fill the syringe a few milliliters over the amount directed by your vet. Keep the catheter tip pointed downward, preventing air from getting in.

1. Place the Shih Tzu puppy on a towel in your lap, head elevated in a slightly inclined position. Wrap one hand around the back of the Shih Tzu puppy’s head, palm against the back of the skull.
2. Stroke the Shih Tzu puppy with your thumb and opposing fingers on each side of the muzzle by the lip corners. The Shih Tzu puppy should respond by opening its mouth.
3. Always keep the syringe elevated and the catheter end pointing downward.
4. You want very small amounts of formula to slowly drip from the catheter’s tip, preventing air from getting in.
5. Directly and gently introduce the tube through the front of the Shih Tzu puppy’s mouth. Never force a catheter down a Shih Tzu puppy’s throat. Never insert at an angle.
6. The Shih Tzu puppy may at first struggle at the catheter’s introduction. Do not push if the catheter does not slip easily down the esophagus. Withdraw the catheter and try again. If the Shih Tzu puppy struggles against the introduction of the catheter, gently apply a small amount of steady pressure to the catheter against the Shih Tzu puppy’s resistance; the Shih Tzu puppy should reflexively swallow. The passage should suddenly open and the tube should slide down easily.
7. The catheter is in correct position when the mark you made is just slightly beyond the tip of the Shih Tzu puppy’s muzzle.
8. Slowly depress the syringe plunger to begin feeding.
9. Never feed a Shih Tzu puppy until its abdomen is distended and hard. If the Shih Tzu puppy’s stomach remains flaccid, you have not fed enough. Feed half the formula, and then burp the Shih Tzu puppy.
10. Be sure to have your vet walk you through the correct procedure for tube feeding before you try this yourself.

Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Designer Pet Clothing is offered on the website. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Teaching Your Pit Bull Terrier the 'Off' Dog Training Command

In this article, we’re going to go over a very basic dog training command known as “Off” or “Down”. If you have a Pit Bull that loves to jump up on company and doesn’t know the meaning of “Down”, this article is for you. “Off” or “Down” simply tells your dog “do not touch”.

The “Off” command is usually used to command your dog not to jump up on house guests or even yourself. Everyone has experienced the unruly dog who jumps up and makes a mess of your outfit when you try to pet him.

Situations like this are what you’re going to be teaching your dog not to do with the “Off” command. You may begin this dog behavior training practice by showing your dog a treat and then watching as he jumps up to grab it. At this point, you’ll simply give him the “Off” command in a firm voice. If your Pit doesn’t listen, simply lift one knee towards your chest and he’ll comply. The purpose of this isn’t to knee your Pit in the face, you simply want to bump him in the chest and it will drop him back down to all fours.

As soon as your Pit Bull has all fours on the ground again, praise him excitedly. Doing so will reward him and show him that his actions were appreciated. Using positive reinforcement for dog training is the most effective means available for teaching your dog right and wrong.

Now, that is the basic way that you’ll teach your Pit Bull terrier the “Off” or “Down” command, the key now is repetition. You need to practice this over and over and over again.

You can begin anticipating his jumping up as well. If you notice that he’s getting ready for liftoff, simply give him the “Off” command. There is no need to wait…

In time, your Pit Bull will restrain from ever jumping up on others and as you can see, the entire training process is really very simple. Enjoy!

To learn all about American Pit Bull Terriers and training a Pit Bull, visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

Crate Training Your American Pit Bull Terrier: Will It Help Your Dog?

Crate training is one of the most often misunderstood dog training techniques. Many questions often come up when discussing the topic of crate training such as: “How can I use crate training to teach my dog to behave?”, “What are the pros and cons of crate training?”, and “Is crate training safe to use as part of my overall dog training program?”

This article will definitely help you understand crate training and what it will do to you Pit Bull terrier. After you’re done reading, I’m confident that you’ll have a much better understanding of crate training.

I get many questions from new dog owners on the subject of crate training. Most people really have no idea what crate training is or what purpose it serves. Quite simply, a “dog crate” is an enclosed cage area that prevents your dog from getting into trouble.

You can crate train your Pit Bull both inside the house or outside. You’ll want your dog to have plenty of room to stand up and lay down.

So what are the benefits of you crate training your Pit Bull? There are many few reasons why crate training your Pit is a good idea. One reason is that a crate will prevent your Pit from destroying the inside of your house when you are away. Eventually, you’ll be able to leave your dog loose when leaving the house and he won’t be destructive while you’re gone.

Another example of when crate training can be helpful is when you’re traveling in your vehicle for a long period of time. Allowing your dog to rest in his crate during the trip will ease his fear if he has any issues with traveling.

Lastly, crate training is a vital component to properly house training a new puppy. Using a crate to assist in potty training is a very good idea and will help cut your pup’s learning curve down drastically.

To learn all about raising an American Pit Bull Terrier and training Pit Bulls, visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

Dog Food - Are You Getting It Right?

Before the advent of ready made dog food, when humans first domesticated dogs, we fed them scraps from our meals. Those early dogs did just fine on that type of dog food. As our affection for dogs has grown over the centuries, so has our understanding of what our canine companions need to eat as food, to live long healthy lives. Research conducted by veterinarians and dog food manufacturers over the last decade have revealed more specific details about what a dog's diet should contain.

Your dog food must be appropriate for her size, age, state of health and activity level. As you stroll the isles of pet supply stores or grocery stores, you'll find a variety of dog food brands in a wide range of prices. A good basic rule of thumb is to buy the highest quality dog food you can afford. If you buy the cheapest food because you have a big dog that eats a lot, you must understand that what you save in food will affect your pet's health.

It is important that your dog always eats some dry dog food. The crunchy pieces help keep her teeth clean and her gums healthy, and provide necessary fiber. If you choose to give your dog moist dog food in addition to dry, use it sparingly; a small spoonful mixed with warm water makes a good gravy over dry kibble. Some devoted dog lovers feed their pets home-cooked food. Dog-specific recipes can be found on the Internet and in books, but understand that this is not just giving your dog leftovers from your own meals. Homemade dog food is designed to meet the nutritional and digestive needs of dogs. Spices, fats, and fillers in human food often makes dogs ill.

Adult dogs should be fed two meals each day. Puppies need to eat more often. They should be fed puppy food three to four meals daily until they are 12 weeks old, then three meals daily until they are six months old. Many dog trainers advise against leaving dog food or puppy food available all day, to prevent dogs developing picky eating habits. They suggest you allow 20 minutes for each meal. After this time, whatever has not been eaten should be picked up. Dry dog food can be held until the next meal, but moist food should be thrown away. It is very important to make sure your dog has plenty of clean water available at a all times.

The amount of dog food you feed your dog depends on her age, weight and activity level. Check the back of food or with your veterinarian to get an idea of how much your dog should be eating. Monitor your dog's weight by running your hands along the sides of her body. If she is at the right weight, you will be able to feel her ribs without pressing. If you can't feel her ribs, she is gaining weight and you should either slightly decrease the amount of food or increase the amount of exercise she gets. If you can easily see your dog's ribs, she is underweight (except in certain breeds).

Article By Andrew Strachan. Find lots more information about different dog breeds and types of dogs at http://www.types-of-dogs.com. Lots of help and advice too.

Dog Care: How to Care for Your Pit Bull's Feet

If you want to keep your Pit Bull terrier in top health, it is very important that you stay on top of things. Your dog’s diet, exercise, and mental stimulation are all vital aspects to having a healthy, happy Pit Bull Terrier. Grooming your dog is also something that is important as well. A well-groomed Pit Bull Terrier will be healthier in the long run and you’ll have less vet bills to boot. Signs of a well-groomed dog are shiny coat, clean ears and eyes, and healthy gums and teeth.

Some Pit Bull terrier owners overlook the importance of grooming their dog’s feet. A Pit Bull’s nails which are too long can be harmful to skin as well as other animals. They are often brutal on wood floors and can even hinder your dog's movement and possibly harm him. Your dog’s paw pads can become very cracked, dry, and sore during dry weather or after walking in the winter snow.

Dogs walk on their toes as a horse does instead of the soles of their feet as humans do. Dogs have four paws as opposed to balls of feet and toes. It is important to always make sure that your Pit Bull Terriers feet are clear of dirt, mud, thorns, etc. as these can cause infection if left unattended over time.

Trim your Pit Bull’s nails regularly as well as the dewclaws, once a week is a good schedule to follow. Many dogs have dewclaws, which is a vestigial paw that is non-functional and serves no purpose. You’ll want to clip these on a regular basis whenever you clip the others.

Caring for your Pit Bull’s feet is something that is very important and should not be overlooked. Get into the habit of checking his feet and clipping his nails weekly and your dog will be all the healthier for it!

To learn all about Pitbull dogs and training a Pitbull, visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

Puppy Choosing Tips

There are numerous factors to consider when choosing a puppy. A puppy requires an enormous amount of responsibility and time so think wisely before deciding on purchasing or adopting one.

Once you’ve made up your mind, it’s time to choose your dog. Here are few things and tips to consider that may help:

Mixed Breed or Pure Breed?

Pure Bred dogs usually have a better temperament than mixed breed ones. But this is not always the case so it is very important to look at the individual dog. Mixed dogs are usually less predictable in their size, temperament and character. This may be an important factor to consider especially when you have small children. Pure breeds are usually bred for certain qualities so it is easy to predict how the puppy will look and act like by referring to its parents. Pure breeds however usually cost more than mixed breeds because breeders bred to insure only the best blood lines. On the contrary, mixed breeds are less expensive and easier to find at animal shelters or pet stores. They are not as subjective to inter-breeding so they also have less health defects than pure breeds.

Easy Ways to Test for Temperament

First, observe the puppy before interacting with it. Note how she interacts with other puppies. If she hides in a corner when other dogs are playing and fighting then she will probably not adapt easily to loud, busy environments. Frequent barking or biting with other puppies imply that she is a social dog that is usually not shy in a new or loud atmosphere. Is she barks or bites and then loses interest means that she is a balance of the two extremes.

Next take her away from other puppies to test for her temperament:

(1) Hold her down on her backside with one hand for 30 seconds and observe how she struggles against restraint.

If she struggles to get free then she is likely to be aggressive or responsive to you.

If she resists at first then gives up then she is likely to be independent.

If she licks your hands or doesn’t struggle then she is likely to be nervous or shy.

(2) Walk away from her and observe how she reacts.

If she doesn’t follow you then she is likely to be independent.

If she follows you with tail up quickly then she is likely to be aggressive.

If she follows you with tail up hesitantly then she is likely to be responsive.

If she follows you with tail down then she is nervous or shy.

(3) Place her in the center of the room and call for her to come to you to observe how social she is.
If she comes to you readily with tail up and pounces at you she is likely to be aggressive.

If she comes to you readily with tail up she is likely to be responsive.

If she comes to you with tail down and doesn’t jump is likely to be nervous.

If she doesn’t come to you she is likely to be independent.

What Does it All Mean?

Responsive: Adaptable, easily trainable, bonds well with humans and other animals. These dogs are great for first time dog owners.
Nervous: Shy and unpredictable. Not recommended around small children.
Aggressive: Dominant, unpredictable and hard to train. Not recommended around children or other animals.
Independent: Stubborn and harder to train.

Adrian is an experienced pet owner and a writer for http://www.Pet-Smarts.com.

If you found this article useful and would like to read more, please visit http://www.Pet-Smarts.com. Pet-Smarts provides tons of excellent pet advice for pet owners of all types. There are articles like this for dogs, cats, rabbits and turtles. Don't forget to take advantage of our Pet Forums (http://petsmarts.forumup.org/?mforum=petsmarts) for more helpful advice and fun facts!

Dog training – Walking to Heel

When you have a good relationship with your dog, teaching the heel command can usually be done with ease. First, take the leash and put your right thumb through the handle, at the top end, then close your finger around the outside of the handle, just below your thumb. This position gives you the most control and will protect your fingers if your dog jerks the leash. The correct position for the heel command is your dog at your left side with his shoulder and front leg aligned with your left leg. He should not lag behind or rush ahead and he should keep his attention focused on you.

We generally recommend teaching him two walking styles. The first is considered a “free” walk, during which he is free to wander, sniff, and do as he pleases. The second is a working walk, during which he is required to remain attentive to you in the heel position and may not wander or become distracted. To initiate a free walk, simply tell your dog, “Okay!” and allow him to do as he pleases. To initiate a working walk, you will command him to heel (after he has learned to, of course) and enforce the command as necessary.

Step 1.) In an open area with your dog on his leash, without saying anything to him, walk away. If he does not follow, give a slight jerk as he reaches the end of the leash. Most dogs, however, tend to bound ahead. Basically, the way this works is whatever direction your dog chooses to go in, you will turn and go the opposite direction. The first few times, your dog will be jerked by the leash when he reaches the end of it. It usually only takes a couple of jerks for him to pay attention to where you are going and usually, in a matter of minutes, you will find him by your side, paying close attention to your movements!

Step 2.) Anytime you find you dog by your side, in the appropriate position, praise him!

Step 3.) When you consistently find your dog walking by your side, then you are ready for him to begin to perfect his working walk! For this, walk in a straight line and keep your dog by your side. If he lags behind, encourage him to catch up, pulling the leash if necessary. If he gets ahead of you, warn him by saying, “stay here”, “heel” or some other suitable command and pull him back if needed.

Step 4.) As your dog perfects keeping pace with you, you will want to randomise the speed of your walk, going slow at some points and fast at others and add stops.

Step 5.) When you stop during a working walk, your dog should stop with you and automatically sit by your side, in the heel position. This is called the automatic sit, and it comes with time and repetition. When you are first beginning though, you will command your dog to sit every time you stop, until it becomes second nature to him. It is a good idea to warn your dog that you are about to stop by making exaggerated body movements or by saying, “Stop” right before you stop. Remember: you want your dog to succeed, so set him up for success by letting him know what you are about to do!

http://www.tall-indoor-dog-gates.com Tall indoor dog gates is a site dedicated to dog training and healthcare – give us a visit.